A slightly different format, here. In this case, I’m reviewing two distinct expressions hailing from Diageo’s hidden Speyside gem, Glen Elgin–the proprietary 12 year old, which is regularly available in the UK, and a one-off single cask from indie bottler Alistair Walker.

Glen Elgin was founded in 1898 by a pair of bankers, William Simpson and James Carle; it began production 2 years later in 1900, only to be closed less than a year after that. It was auctioned the following year, but production didn’t resume until 1906 with the distillery under the ownership of wine merchant JJ Blanche. It was sold to DCL’s malt distilling arm, SMD, following Blanche’s death in 1930. It has remained under their–and successor companies–stewardship ever since. 

After its early misfortunes, closures have been rare, and have generally been to allow for refurbishment or expansion. It was briefly bottled as a 12 year old in the Flora and Fauna range, before being moved into the more widely distributed Hidden Malts range, still at 12 but with a more distinctive bottle. Glen Elgin has long been an important component in the White Horse blend.

Glen Elgin isn’t an especially widely-known distillery, and it doesn’t generate huge amounts of buzz in the enthusiast community, however, in my somewhat limited experience, the whisky is excellent. It keeps a fairly low profile in the expansive Diageo portfolio, however, independent bottlings are fairly plentiful.

Interestingly, it is one of relatively few distilleries still using worm tubs as condensers rather than the more commonly used shell and tube type condenser. Most experts and enthusiasts seem to agree that, holding other variables constant, worm tubs produce a weightier, more characterful spirit. Both expressions reviewed here are excellent whiskies that show considerable complexity at a relatively young age.

The core proprietary 12 is a surprisingly weighty (even slightly oily) whisky for the gentle 43% abv, and has quite a lot going on around a core of fruitiness, grasses, and notes of pastry. The 11 year old from the Infrequent Flyers range is a rare entry in the range to have a relatively straightforward bourbon maturation with no wine finish; compared to the official bottling, it dials up the intensity a bit thanks to integrity presentation and a healthy 51.3% cask strength abv; the pastry elements are there still, and in general it’s still quite a fruity whisky, although the fruits are more tropical, less orchard, in this essay. 

Glen Elgin 12, 43% abv

Character: Fruity, somewhat grassy, with baked goods.

Score: 90/100

Glen Elgin 12, 43% abv
Bottling Information:

Expression: Glen Elgin 12

Bottler: Proprietor

Range: n/a (formerly Hidden Malts)

Bottle Code: L3052CM000 01022916

Presentation: Unspecified

Details: n/a

Price: $45-60

Availability: UK and EU specialty retail, such as Master of Malt or The Whisky Exchange.

Tasting notes: (proprietary 12 year old)

Nose: Very fruity and lively—sweet apples, honeydew melon and sliced pineapple. There’s a little bit of fresh cut grass in there too. A faint wisp of smoke. Lemon yogurt. Fresh, sweet, appealing and inviting.

Body: Medium and extremely silky smooth; a tiny bit oily.

Palate: Surprisingly big, with some wood smoke. Baked apples. Slightly burnt pastry crust. A soapy note and then fresh and sweet green grapes. Very likeable.

Finish: Horehound drops and then a bit of dried grass; medium length.

Score: 90/100

Who should buy it?: If you happen to be somewhere it’s easily available and you’re looking to buy an affordable and generally excellent whisky, I don’t think you’ll go wrong. If (like me) you’re here in the US, and maybe putting through a sizable order at one of the online retailers, you’re not going to go amiss throwing a bottle on.

Overall thoughts: Really good stuff.

Infrequent Flyers Glen Elgin 11, 51.3% abv

Character: Fruity, sweet, honeyed, baked goods.

Score: 93/100

Glen Elgin 11 (2010) Infrequent Flyers, 51.3% abv

Bottling Information:

Expression: Glen Elgin 11 (2010)

Bottler: Alistair Walker

Range: Infrequent Flyers

Bottle Code: L21 179 AWW0051 PB

Presentation: Unchillfiltered and natural color

Details: Matured in an ex-bourbon hogshead, distilled Feb 18 2010, bottled June 2021, 1/99 bottles, cask # 800999

Price: $95-105

Availability: You might luck into a bottle at auction or UK specialty retail, but 99 bottles released in 2021? On the scarce side, at this point.

Tasting notes: (Infrequent Flyers 11 year old)

Nose: A little shy. Fruits and pastry. Banana bread. Crushed walnuts. Glazed donut. Blueberry syrup. Maple sugar candy. Floral and sweet, with a slight cereal undertone.

Body: Light to medium.

Palate: Exuberant, plump and juicy. Sweet and succulent. Light honey. Sliced pineapple. Oreo filling. There’s a slight herbal undertone–mint or sweet basil? and just a touch of fresh ginger. Integrated.

Finish: Medium length with light honey to the fore, slowly fading away to a gentle herbal character.

Score: 93/100

Who should buy it?: If you like whisky, and find it within $5-10 of the retail price of $95, I’d say it is well worth buying.
Overall thoughts: A gem, and a credit to both Alistair Walker and this too-often overlooked distillery.

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