The Basics:

Character: Fruity, and slightly smoky.

Score: 92/100

The details:

An earlier Wolfburn distillery operated in the wind-swept Caithness town of Thurso, on Scotland’s rugged and remote north coast, in the early to mid 19th century, but almost nothing remained of the site when this new Wolfburn distillery was founded in the early 2010s. Like its predecessor, it takes its water from the Wolf Burn, hence the name. 

Since Wolfburn began producing in 2013, it qualifies as one of the “older” new distilleries to have sprouted up across Scotland in the last 25-30 years (and very especially since the turn of the millennium). There are so many new distilleries vying for attention. Perhaps it’s that, perhaps it’s sheer isolation, or perhaps it’s just a touch of ill-luck; for whatever reasons, Wolfburn doesn’t seem to have captured the enthusiast community’s imagination in quite the same way as other new distilleries like the much ballyhooed Ardnamurchan. 

This is a grievous oversight; Wolfburn has been cranking out high quality malts for nearly 10 years now, most quite reasonably priced, every single one with integrity presentation, and no small number–including the essay reviewed here–at a rollicking cask strength. It’s lovely stuff, and well worth any whisky-lover’s time and attention.

Wolfburn has released a plethora of expressions since it first had mature spirit. The core range consists of Northland (originally just ‘Wolfburn’), a sherry matured expression called Aurora, a cask-strength bourbon matured expression called Langskip, and a lightly peated expression called Morven, alongside a vast array of special releases for a variety of occasions. This lively, fruity, lightly peaty 7 year old was released in 2022 to commemorate Father’s day; matured in a mixture of ex-bourbon and oloroso sherry casks, it weighs in at a vigorous 58.2% abv; it’s an excellent dram that shows what this remote Highlander can offer.

Wolfburn 7 – Father’s Day Special Release, 58.2% abv

Tasting notes:

Nose: Fruity, slightly biscuity, lightly jammy, with a hint of gunpowder. Fresh sweet cornbread and slightly overripe grape. Slight gunpowder–nosing muscat on 4th of July?

Body: Lightish.

Palate: Fruity, savory and integrated. Sweet fermenting grape, guava nectar, orange frosting, and a light gunpowder/fireworks smokiness. There’s a slight salty-savory note like soy sauce running underneath, too. Quite moreish.

Finish: Shortish, drying, smokier with a slight leather note.

Score: 92/100

Who should buy it?: If you like a nice single malt that balances strength, drinkability, a little fruit, a little smoke, and a touch of ineffable maritime character, you won’t go wrong with this beauty. It’s a little rugged, but highly approachable.

Overall thoughts: An excellent young malt from Wolfburn that is immensely enjoyable on its own merits, and shows great promise for the future. Cracking stuff.

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